Refuel your West Coast road trip

Electric Reefton — a little town that could

Reefton’s cute, old-timer street fronts are just one part of its current reputation as a little town that could. When it first exploded into life on the back of the 19th century gold rush, Reefton was big and prosperous enough to install the first electric street lighting in New Zealand.

Behind the scenes today, there’s still plenty of forward thinking going on. Start with a great coffee and delicious traditional baking at the Future Dough Co., a main street bakery-cafe-restaurant that’s been cooking up delights since 1874. It’s all good here where everything is made from scratch, baked fresh daily on the premises. Later in the day, slip around the corner to Reefton Distillery for a tasting of the Little Biddy Gin inspired by an old-time gold mining legend. Take a bottle away.

There are many fascinating reasons to stop off in Reefton. The town has been declared a Tohu Whenua site in recognition of its historic importance, and the rich vane of stories to discover. Start at the Reefton Visitor Centre. For outdoors adventurers, there’s a series of mountain bike and walking trails in the hills, and a great range of accommodation including the extra smart Brewer’s Night Inn.

Hospitable Hokitika — refueling stops

Many Hokitika visitors arrive on two wheels thanks to the West Coast Wilderness Trail — a multi-day, cycling trail that travels between Greymouth in the north and Ross to the south. So, with all those enthusiastic peddlers around, it’s not surprising that this town has its share of quality ‘refueling’ stops.

Most mornings, there’s a bunch of mountain bikes parked up near the iconic clocktower in the middle of town, with dedicated bikers enjoying the delights of the local pit stops. Choose from The Regent Cafe (superb buttermilk cheese scones), the Clocktower Cafe (excellent home baking) or Cafe 39 for a delicious old-style whitebait sammie (in season).

Meanwhile, just around the corner on the main road, Bespoke cafe — a little coffee caravan beside the laundromat — does impressive gluten-free baking and great coffee. Get in early for possibly-the-best-in-NZ fresh cut sandwiches at Hokitika Sandwich Co — they sell out more often than not — then take a stroll around the pounamu carving workshops.

Tasty Westport — wild pies and craft beers

As the main gateway to the Buller District on the northern end of the West Coast, Westport has everything you’d expect from a lively business hub with a working port. Mining history goes back a long way here — get a taste of the old mining days and local Māori history at the newly revamped Kawatiri Museum of Westport. Mining was thirsty work so it’s no surprise local highlights still include beer and pies.

At Westport’s Shortjaw Brewing, an old miners’ brewery has had a new lease on life with a new team and a new name. Borrowing its name from a species of kōkopu (whitebait), this boutique craft brewery and taproom is turning out some mighty fine crafted brews. Top that off by matching your bevvy with a premium gamey meat pie cooked up by Emily Lucas, patissier and legendary pie-maker at the West Coast Pie Co.

Find your caffeine fix at Whanake Gallery & Espresso Bar. Drop into this charming heritage building on Westport’s main street for an excellent take-out coffee, yummy savouries, raw treats and homebaking — and fuel up for some easy cycling or a walk on the new family-friendly Kawatiri Coastal Trail.

Punakaiki — pancakes anyone?

Punakaiki has heaps of things going on, starting with the incredible Pancake Rocks and Blowholes — the West Coast’s most-visited natural attraction throws up an endless demonstration of nature’s power. Compelling viewing!

But don’t miss Punakaiki’s other attractions, walking tracks and trails into Paparoa National Park and an outstanding new indoor, all-weather attraction, the Paparoa Experience — an immersive multi-sensory experience blending local Māori Ngāti Waewae culture with history and geology.

The Paparoa Experience is housed in the impressive new Paparoa Visitor Centre opposite the walkways to the Rocks. On the spot, the smart new indoor-outdoor Whenua Taurikura Eatery serves up local delights including West Coast Pies, Kawatiri Coffee alongside a signature menu. Next door, the Pancake Rocks Cafe is the place for a sweet stack of pancakes. Sample their delectable West Coast Chocolate Icons, made with local flavours, and take a box away for a special treat.

Greymouth — home of Monteith’s beer

Beer, brewing and bars go back a long way in Greymouth. For starters, it’s the home of New Zealand’s original craft beer. Check out the taste and the history at Monteith’s Brewery. This iconic Kiwi brand was founded on the West Coast in 1868 and, while they no longer brew here, you can go behind the scenes on a guided tour of the old brew house or refuel in relaxed rustic surroundings.

In an historic brick building near the Greymouth railway station, Speight’s Ale House serves another southern classic, aka Speights. The 1909 building, the ‘Brick House’, housed public servants working in government departments, before reinventing as a stylish gastropub. Nearby, Sevenpenny, an all-day cafe-restaurant-bar doing smart cafe food tells the story of a 1947 beer boycott when patrons revolted against local publicans planning to raise the price of a pint from six to seven pennies. The drinkers won the fight.

For an insiders take on local history, places and food, book a West Coast Scenic Taste Tour with knowledgeable local guide Jackie. Full day tours departing Greymouth include visits to scenic destinations, lunch and tastings of food, beer and spirits. Half-day tours are available by arrangement.

Karamea & Jackson’s Bay — tasty experiences

Brunch at Vinnies Cafe, in Karamea, is a tasty affair. Starting out two decades ago, Vinnies has morphed over a couple of decades from coffee cart to a yurt to a rustic café now occupying the old-time cinema and dance hall. Expect copious brunches, great pies and sausage rolls, and excellent coffee. The best preparation ever for a day out exploring the wonders of the Opārāra Arches and Honeycomb Hill caves.

Fish and chips beside the sea at The Craypot, in Jackson’s Bay. On a beautiful southern Westland day, it doesn’t get much better at this little food truck. Follow the road, south from Haast to Jackson Bay where fishing boats land their catch at a sleepy little seaside port. Expect the freshest blue cod, entire crayfish, pretty salads, outdoor tables and great views. Licensed, open for lunches from September until Easter.